As the international design set descends on Milan for another edition of the Salone del Mobile fair, which begins tomorrow, one American expat waits with open arms: J.J. Martin. The California native moved to the city 14 years ago to be with her Italian husband and has devoted herself to exploring its charms ever since, first as a journalist and Wallpaper magazine contributing editor and more recently as the founder of LaDoubleJ.com, an editorial and e-commerce site devoted to the best style and vintage shopping the city has to offer. "I have gotten an incredible hands-on education in fashion and design in Milan just by doing my job," she says. "I feel like it's the biggest, most international small town in the world." Here, on the eve of the fair, Martin offers up suggestions for where to eat, drink, shop and explore in her adopted hometown.
EAT/DRINK
The Small: a tiny treasure
"I like to cook at home but when I do go out, I prefer cozier, more casual restaurants with traditional food. I really like the Small because it has that homey quality but it's also very well-designed."
Via Paganini Niccolo 3, thesmall.it.
Pasticceria Cucchi: the quintessential espresso
"This has been my go-to bar for 13 years. To be honest, it's not even the best coffee in Milan; for that, I prefer Marchesi or Bastianello. But the cozy mood and the deeply Italian scene in which octogenarians mingle with toddlers and fashion designers — not to mention Mr. Cucchi in his dapper suit and tie behind the cash register — keep me coming back every weekend."
Corso Genova 1, pasticceriacucchi.it.
T'A: new, delightful dining
"A relatively new restaurant. Super-central, chic interiors and great food."
Via Clerici 1, tamilano.com.
Fioraio Bianchi Caffe: cocktail hour
"I love the bar scene here. There's rarely any place to sit, but it's so lively and filled with flowers and creative people."
Via Montebello 7, fioraiobianchicaffe.it.
DO
Rotonda della Basana: a stroll back in time
"Down the street from my house is this beautiful cross-shaped brick building, where Marni hosted its flower market last fashion week. It's surrounded by a lovely porticoed brick walkway that makes me feel like I'm parading around in the 1700s."
Via Enrico Basana 12
Oditza: manicures on demand
"The Milanese have yet to conquer the spa concept (I'm still waiting for a bushy-tailed American to import a great one). The good news is that the best manicurist in town makes house calls."
+39 334 227 4630
Hohm Street Yoga: getting grounded
"I have been on a holy grail hunt for good yoga in Milan for over 13 years. A new — and long overdue — discovery is Hohm Street Yoga, where I take classes with Marco. He is the best teacher I've found in Milan so far."
Via San Calocero 3, hohmstreetyoga.com.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II: a memorable mall
"Taking pictures of the mosaic floor is one of my favorite free things to do in the city. The patterns and workmanship are so spectacular that I have to resist the urge to lie down on it and have someone snap my photo."
Piazza Duomo
SHOP
BassamFellows Lifestyle Gallery at Exits Gallery: heavy dose of design
"The fact that these two Connecticut-based designers plopped themselves down in Milan and teamed up with the famed local architect Michele de Lucchi to offer not only their incredible furniture, footwear and eyewear, but also de Lucchi's hard to find lighting, glassware and metal objects is just very cool. This is what Milan is all about."
Via Varese 14, bassamfellows.com.
Antonia: fashion, Italian-style
"In terms of new fashion, I like this store, which features many of the usual big fashion brands, but the edit is extremely Milanese. So basically you're seeing what a proper Milanese woman would wear from all of the most recent fashion shows, which is fun and funny."
Via Broletto 43, antonia.it.
Il Valore Aggiunto: antiques galore
"When we were renovating our apartment, I bought a lot of great vintage and antique furniture from this place, which is run by two fabulous Italian sisters. I love going in there and spending an afternoon on one of their 1930s upholstered couches, talking about redecorating."
Via Mameli 3, ilvaloreaggiunto.it.
Arform: tabletop treasures
"The best-looking salad bowls, water carafes and glass lemon stands."
Via Moscova 22, arform.it.
Cheerleading for Milan
By MATTHEW SCHNEIER
It's hip for the fashion crowd to hate the city, but some fans are trying to change opinions.
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