Tired of being leapfrogged by locavore newcomers from Brooklyn to Portland, organizers of Santa Fe's new food festival, Fuze.SW, aim to get diners thinking about the region's culinary history.
Modeled on the successful Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, Fuze.SW, which takes place on Santa Fe's Museum Hill, combines scholarly seminars (think debates on the roots of the New Mexican red and green chile) alongside lunch trucks, storytelling and classes in papel picado, Mexican paper art centerpieces. The inaugural conference took place last November, and is set to run annually in September beginning this year, Sept. 12 to 14.
"The greatest food fusion in history was the Mediterranean and Mexico," said the cookbook author Bill Jamison while leading a cooking class with his wife, the chef Cheryl Alters Jamison, at the inaugural Fuze.SW last November. "New Mexico participated directly because it was settled so much earlier than other areas of the U.S., and it developed an independent food tradition."
The conference focuses on the unique influences that went into New Mexican cuisine, including European, Mexican and Native American contributions. The guest lineup includes chefs, journalists, farmers, archeologists and food historians.
This year's theme, "Sitting At The Same Table," will concentrate on the latter, featuring a buffalo roast dinner; seminars on traditional farming in the desert; and talks on modern pueblo diets, blue-corn piki bread, and indigenous cooking utensils. Besides buffalo, feasting opportunities include a lunch cooked by Native American grandmothers and a finale frito pie and beer tasting party.
"This is such a deep and rich food tradition," Ms. Jamison said, "but rarely do people get to sit around and talk about it."
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