To get to Provincetown, Mass., you need time and patience, which are easy things to allot yourself when you remember the town's quaint colonial cape homes, its miles of grassy dunes and the way the light plays off of Cape Cod Bay, making it wink and twinkle like gold in the afternoon and turn to pink glass at sunset. This artists' enclave and tourist community, where international film and theater festivals keep the town busy between themed weeks, is also a great place to indulge in good food and shopping when you're not at the beach.
SHOP
Credit Chad Cates
Loveland: sea-inspired bohemian wares
Half the fun of shopping at Loveland is meeting its owner, Josh Patner, who curates a trove of little treasures for his bohemian marine boutique. Items range from pottery and woodblock prints by the local artist Gail S. Browne to Artiga totes and beach towels and a stash of unique apothecary items. 120 Commercial Street, Provincetown, (508) 413-9500.
Map: where Americana clothing mingles with French candles
Up the street from Loveland is Map, a clothing store with a cult following. It's owned by a local, Pauline Fisher, who stocks Levi's denim, vintage flannel shirts and cowboy boots and jewelry-like chain necklaces and beaded bracelets — and for the home, diptyque Paris candles. 141 Commercial Street, Provincetown, (508) 487-4900.
Tim-Scapes: duct-taped duds
Further down the street, toward Town Hall, is the clothing boutique Tim-Scapes. The owner and artist Tim Convery uses duct tape to create Provincetown-inspired designs influenced by the '70s graphics of artists like Charlie Harper and Cortia Kent. And it's fashion for a cause: his Helper Tees collection raises awareness and funds for organizations including the Breast Cancer Research Foundation, LAMDA Legal, the Aids Support Group of Cape Cod and the Wild Care of Cape Cod. 208 Commercial Street, Provincetown, (917) 626-4052.
Yates & Kennedy: purveyors of hand-silkscreened shirts
In Provincetown's East End, Yates & Kennedy offers accessories like belts and bracelets, and thin T-shirts hand-silkscreened by one of the owners, John Kennedy, in his small studio in Louisiana. 368 Commercial Street, Provincetown, (508) 487-4400.
EAT
Joe Coffee and Cafe: the local pick-me-up
Most townies spend their mornings lumped together on the front patio of Joe Coffee and Cafe, which serves pastries, danishes and sandwiches, and a range of fair-trade coffee blends. Joe's staffers are young and friendly, and keep their patrons sitting at the umbrella-shaded patio tables fueled up on iced mochas and dozens of other coffee confections. 170 Commercial Street, Provincetown, (508) 487-6656.
Kohi Coffee Co: hipster beans
This year, Kohi Coffee Co opened on Commercial Street, bringing to town Brooklyn, N.Y.'s Blue Bottle Coffee. This tiny beachside spot doesn't have any seating, but it does offer cold brewed, made-to-order drip coffee and salted caramels from Sumner & Company, who supplies candy to the fashionable Ace Hotel chain. 99 Commercial Street, Provincetown, info@kohicoffee.com.
Connie's Bakery: a sweet treat
Connie's Bakery has been serving up sweets to Provincetown for over 30 years, with a strong following for their homemade fruit pies and treats like blueberry peach crostada. They also offer breakfast and lunch sandwiches, coffee and snacks like hummus, all prime treats for settling into the waterfront patio to watch the ferries and sailboats zip through the harbor. 205 Commercial Street, Provincetown, (508) 487-2167.
The Canteen: local eats and drinks
Loic Rossingnon, Tom Pucci and Rob Anderson are the trio behind the Canteen, an affordably priced, casual eatery that serves fast nibbles like local oysters or cod banh mi sandwiches alongside Cape Cod brews in its backyard, a garden that faces the beach and Cape Cod Bay. 225 Commercial Street, Provincetown, (508) 487-3800.
Victor's: the (raw) bar
At Victor's Restaurant on Bradford Street, happy hour specials include seafood to go along with the place's refreshing negronis. Every day from 3 to 5 p.m., the raw bar dishes out local oysters on the half shell for 99 cents apiece. 175 Bradford Street, Provincetown, (508) 487-1777.
SLEEP
Salt House Inn: a boutique place to stay
The latest addition to Provincetown's drove of small inns and hotels is the Salt House Inn off busy Conwell Street. The cedar-shingled 19th-century house, once the home to a group of local salt miners, has 15 bright, white-washed rooms, and gardens and roof terraces where guests can relax and enjoy Instagram-worthy breakfasts. 6 Conwell Street, Provincetown, salthouseinn.com.
Red Inn: ye ol' faithful
Still, for some, the best place in town to drop anchor is Provincetown's charming Red Inn. The 200-year old hotel occupies a slice of Provincetown's stunning West End waterfront, where wine and cocktails pair perfectly with sunset over the Cape Cod Bay. The restaurant and bar at the eight-room inn are cozy and offer a seasonal menu of local products like Wellfleet oysters and lobsters. 15 Commercial Street, Provincetown, theredinn.com.
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