36 Hours in Izmir, Turkey

Written By Unknown on Kamis, 22 Agustus 2013 | 17.35

Ayman Oghanna for The New York Times

Fishing along the waterfront in Izmir.

"Infidel Izmir." That's the nickname that was long ago bestowed on Turkey's third-largest metropolis. Known for most of its history as Smyrna, this port city was, in Ottoman times, a melting pot that included Greeks, Armenians, Jews, French and Italians. Today's Izmir is largely Turkish, but the moniker lingers. For religious Turks, the label seems appropriate for this sunny, palm-fringed seaside city, with its relaxed attitudes and many nonobservant Muslims. For most residents, though, the nickname is proof of Izmir's progressiveness. Reverential images of Ataturk, the founder of modern secular Turkey, are everywhere, and in June many in the city protested against Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan after his Islamist-inspired government cracked down on peaceful demonstrators in Istanbul who had mobilized to save a city park from developers. Izmir — which is among four international cities that are vying to hold the World Expo in 2020 — has much to offer visitors: a renovated waterfront, an ever-evolving night-life district and slick new design hotels. Meanwhile, a vast traditional bazaar and the spectacular nearby ruins of Ephesus bear witness to a rich past.

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Ayman Oghanna for The New York Times

Shopping for coats at Kemeralti, the city's crowded bazaar.

FRIDAY

4 p.m.
1. Bay City Strollers

Hugging the Aegean, the popular seaside promenade known as the Kordon is a fascinating window into Izmir's proudly nationalist history, laid-back mores and unique religious character. Under buildings draped with Turkish flags and Ataturk banners, women in miniskirts stroll alongside matrons in head scarves as businessmen quaff Efes beer in open-air restaurants. Heading south from Alsancak Ferry Terminal, you'll amble past the white neo-Classical stone facade of the Ataturk Museum, the grand battlefield statue of Ataturk in Cumhuriyet Square, the Ottoman-era buildings along Pasaport Ferry Terminal, and countless seaside cafes.

6 p.m.
2. Pier Review

None other than Gustave Eiffel designed the original Konak Pier, a long wharf of low stone buildings and glass and steel coverings. Erected in 1890, the former customs house had gone to seed before a 2003 restoration project saved it. Now it shelters boutiques like Taris Zeytin, a shrine to every form of olive oil (body lotion, for example, 13 Turkish lira, or $7 at 1.85 lira to the dollar) and olive leaf (tea, 3.75 lira, or $2, a box). The outdoor terrace of %100 Rest Cafe & More is a scenic spot to sip a local Angora red wine (13 lira) and absorb the city's much-admired sunsets.

8 p.m.
3. Ship to Shore

Pay tribute to Izmir's seafaring past by hopping the ferry from Konak Ferry Terminal and crossing Homer's "wine-dark sea" to the Bostanli landing, on the north side of Izmir's bay. The ride affords sublime views of the twinkling jagged hills and illuminated skyscrapers and mosques — as well as the hilltop ruins of Kadifekale, a stone fortress that dates back to the reign of Alexander the Great. A three-ride fare card is 6.50 lira.

9 p.m.
4. A Meal Aquatic

If you catch it with a hook, net or trap, they serve it at Mavra Restaurant, a 10-minute walk from the Bostanli ferry landing. With its white stone walls and hanging lanterns, the indoor-outdoor space evokes a rustic Aegean village. But the convivial crowd is urbane, as Polo shirts and Chanel handbags testify. There's no menu. Waiters just show up, first with an enormous tray of mezze from which you might choose dips like saksuka (a zesty purée of eggplant and tomato). Next comes the seafood course, which has been known to include grilled octopus tentacles, skewered calamari and curried sea bass fillets. For dessert, mastic gum sometimes arrives as an ice cream-like mound soaked in chocolate sauce. A meal for two with drinks is 150 lira.

SATURDAY

10 a.m.
5. The Two Towers

Rio has Christ the Redeemer, Rome has the Colosseum and Paris has the Arc de Triomphe. In Izmir, the most photographed stone masterwork is the Clock Tower in Konak Square, a tall, slender, intricately chiseled minaret-like white structure atop a two-tiered base ringed with arches, columns and fountains. Designed by a French citizen of the Ottoman Empire, the 1901 tower is another symbol of Izmir's longstanding ties with the West. Across the pigeon-packed square soars another tower, the minaret of Yali Mosque. A small octagonal stone and brick building surrounded by horseshoe-shaped windows and ornately painted blue porcelain tiles, the 18th-century mosque is another impressive relic of Ottoman glory.

11 a.m.
6. Bazaar Sensations


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