Bites: Restaurant Report: Onlywood Pizzeria Trattoria in Key West

Written By Unknown on Jumat, 05 Juli 2013 | 17.35

Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

A mozzarella rollantino is one of the dishes offered in addition to pizza.

Duval Street, with its brusque drag queens, blaring music and inebriated swarms, may be the version of Key West, Fla., seared into the minds of many visitors. But just steps away from this mayhem, on a tiny half-street tightly wedged between two buildings, is a restaurant whose food and story have charmed locals since its October opening.

Onlywood Pizzeria Trattoria is the Duval antidote: a modest space filled with the sounds of 1990s Italian pop. A tranquil garden area, with basil and oregano plants and anole lizards leisurely sunning themselves, rounds out the low-key mood.

The restaurant is the love child of Davide Cremascoli and Alessandro Piazzo, two recovering New Yorkers who, like many Key Westers, fled the stresses of the north as soon as they could. "We love the island, we love the atmosphere," said Mr. Cremascoli, who managed a Manhattan Italian restaurant for 10 years before moving south last year. "Here, everything is relaxed. The weather is always good, the sky is always blue."

Because Mr. Piazzo used to work at the popular Kesté Pizza & Vino in Manhattan, pizza became the focus of Onlywood, where pies are baked in a wood-fired oven shipped from Naples, Italy. Fresh mozzarella — made daily in-house — is the star of many pies, paired with ingredients like anchovies or sweet sausage, along with herbs, sometimes plucked from the restaurant's garden. And the thin-crust canvas for these ingredients is flavorful and crisp, with just enough char. The pizza lineup offers a nod to Mr. Piazzo's résumé as well: the Kesté features mozzarella, arugula, Parmesan and prosciutto. (Pizza even extends to the dessert selections, in the form of a delicious Nutella pie.)

Local ingredients pepper the menu. Sweet and meaty Key West pink shrimp appear with squid ink linguine and in spaghetti allo scoglio, alongside Manila clams, calamari, scallops and mussels. And Key limes zest up Mr. Piazzo's signature chicken wings, which are deep-fried, finished off in the oven and served with a punchy dip.

Asked what's in the dip, Mr. Cremascoli's New York side momentarily resurfaced. "Mascarpone, barbecue sauce and a few other things," he said. "If I tell you, I have to kill you."

Onlywood Pizzeria Trattoria, 613 ½ Rear Duval Street, Key West, Fla.; (305) 735-4412; onlywoodkw.com. An average meal for two, without drinks or tip, is about $25.


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