36 Hours in Gettysburg, Pa.

Written By Unknown on Jumat, 28 Juni 2013 | 17.36

On July 1, 1863, Confederate and Union troops descended on the grassy hills of Gettysburg, thrusting the sleepy town of 2,400 into the Civil War. The three-day Battle of Gettysburg ended the Confederate invasion of the North and resulted in staggering losses — an estimated 51,000 casualties in all for the campaign — for both sides. Each year, about 1.2 million visitors journey to the Gettysburg National Military Park. This year, about 200,000 are expected to attend the town and park's commemoration of the battle's 150th anniversary, which runs through July 7, with plenty more events and exhibits continuing through the end of the year (gettysburgcivilwar150.com). Avoiding the crowds, though, has its merits, offering a more solemn experience. Either way, Gettysburg — which is still a small town, with a population of only 7,645 — has a lot to offer beyond history lessons. The town's compact but lively center, lined with Federal-style buildings, is filled with mom-and-pop shops and restaurants, and serves as a great base for exploring the region's vineyards and winding country roads.

FRIDAY

3 p.m.
1. Students' Union

Founded in 1832, Gettysburg College (300 North Washington Street; gettysburg.edu) sits on 200 bucolic acres north of the town's center. Walk among the mostly brick Georgian and Victorian buildings and stop at the stately, white Pennsylvania Hall, an administrative building that was a signal corps station and field hospital for Union and Confederate troops during the battle. Sit in the Adirondack chairs on its expansive lawn, then step into the Musselman Library for the student-curated exhibit "Slaves, Soldiers, Citizens: African-American Artifacts of the Civil War Era," on view until Dec. 13. In the exhibition, unsettling artifacts like slave collars and shackles are on display next to a United States Colored Troops cap pouch and rifled musket and proof of freedom passes.

5 p.m.
2. Homegrown and Homemade

Walk down North Washington Street to Johnny Como's Cupcakes and Coffee (62 Chambersburg Street; johnnycomos.com), which, with its recreated pink 1950s kitchen and Betty Boop posters, is like stepping back in time. Order a maple bacon or peanut butter madness cupcake ($3.50). There are also cupcakes across the street at the Wells Family Baking Company (100 Chambersburg Street; 717-337-2900), a good place for coffee and biscotti; try the lemon anise or cranberry pecan (up to $2). Continue on Chambersburg Street and browse locally made jewelry, scarves and goat-milk soaps at A & A Village Treasures (53 Chambersburg Street; aavillagetreasures.com). Down the road, Gallery 30 (26 York Street; gallery30.com) sells pottery and hand-painted gourds by local artisans as well as blankets, pillows and tablecloths woven in Pennsylvania.

8 p.m.
3. Meal With a View

You used to have to drive about 30 minutes to the chef Neil Annis's restaurant Sidney in East Berlin, Pa., for his locally sourced, seasonal American menu. Now you'll find an outpost, Sidney Willoughby Run (730 Chambersburg Road; restaurantsidney.com/willoughby-run), which opened last summer, overlooking the battlefield. The night I ate there I had fall-off-your-fork-tender braised beef short ribs and a salsify purée so creamy it was like a sauce to the broccoli rabe and wild mushrooms. If it's on the menu, try the savory Cheddar and goat cheese macaroni with chunks of Maryland blue crab. Dinner for two, with wine, about $110.

10 p.m.
4. Hops Stop

Settle in for a nightcap at the Appalachian Brewing Company (401 Buford Avenue; abcbrew.com) across the street (a second location, in town, 70 Presidential Circle, opened this month). The brewing system's copper tanks below the cozy wooden bar can be toured by appointment during the day. At night, try one of its 16 draft beers on tap, including a seasonal craft ale like Hinterland Hefe Weizen.

SATURDAY

8:30 a.m.
5. Cup of Joe With Abe

Grab a quick breakfast of coffee, Amish baked goods and fresh strawberries or blueberries at the Gettysburg Farmers' Market (Lincoln Square; gettysburgfarmmarket.com), which takes place on Saturdays, from 7 a.m. to noon, in Lincoln Square, marked by J. Seward Johnson Jr.'s bronze life-size sculpture of Abraham Lincoln greeting a modern-clothed man with a wave of his stovepipe hat. For a souvenir, pick up a bottle of Torchbearer Sauces, made mostly with Pennsylvania-grown peppers, in one of its tongue-in-cheek flavors like Zombie Apocalypse (ghost and habanero peppers) or Oh My Garlic.

9 a.m.
6. Origin Story

Arrive at the Gettysburg National Park Service Museum and Visitor Center (1195 Baltimore Pike; nps.gov/gett) before the crowds descend midmorning. The most popular way to navigate the park's 26 miles of roads is by car. CDs of self-guided tours, starting at $21.99 for 90 minutes, are sold in the bookstore. For a tour with a licensed battlefield guide, reserve a two-hour bus tour ($30 per adult) or a two-hour private tour starting at $65 per vehicle. Reservations can also be made online at tickets.gettysburgfoundation.org up to three days in advance or by phone, (877) 874-2478, within three days of your visit. The museum ($12.50) offers a primer on the Civil War through short videos, photographs and artifacts like Robert E. Lee's battlefield cot and desk. The short film, "A New Birth of Freedom," shown in the adjacent theaters every 15 minutes, lays out the origins of the war, the debate over slavery's expansion to the new territories and the battle's legacy, immortalized by Lincoln's Gettysburg Address, as a defense of democratic ideals. The Gettysburg Cyclorama, a monumental 1884 painting by the French artist Paul Philippoteaux that depicts Pickett's Charge, is worth a look.

10 a.m.
7. Battle and Burial

Gettysburg National Military Park spans 5,989 acres of woodlands, farmlands, craggy ridges and sloping valleys, with more than 1,300 monuments erected by the battle's veterans and state governments. Start at McPherson Ridge, where, early in the morning of July 1, 1863, fighting broke out between Union cavalry and Confederate infantry. Then drive south to Little Round Top, the craggy hill that Union soldiers, in a downhill bayonet charge, defended against Confederate troops. At the High Water Mark, look out on the open field that some 12,000 Confederate infantrymen crossed in a mile-long front known as Pickett's Charge. After the decisive defeat, Confederate troops retreated to Virginia, ending Lee's campaign into Pennsylvania. Cross the road to Soldiers' National Cemetery, where about 3,500 Union soldiers lay buried, 1,632 in unmarked graves. The cemetery was dedicated on Nov. 19, 1863, and following a Massachusetts politician's two-hour oration, President Lincoln took two minutes to deliver "a few appropriate remarks" — the Gettysburg Address.

1:30 p.m.
8. Sweet Break

For lunch at Café Saint-Amand (48 Baltimore Street; cafesaintamand.com), a French-style bistro, try one of its savory crepes, like the Swiss cheese and caramelized onions ($6.95), then one of the sweet, like the glazed apple with ginger crumbs and candied walnuts ($5.95). Or walk down Baltimore Street to Mr. G's Ice Cream (404 Baltimore Street. 717-334-7600) for a scoop ($2.55) of one of its 16 homemade flavors like salted caramel and mint Oreo.

3 p.m.
9. Civilian Side

A number of historic houses and foundations line Gettysburg's streets. Skip most of them and go to the Shriver House (309 Baltimore Street; shriverhouse.org; $8.50), which gives a glimpse of the battle's effect on civilians. A 19th-century-attired guide takes you through the meticulously refurbished home of the Shrivers, a family who, having fled the battle, returned to find their house repurposed to treat wounded soldiers. At Lincoln Square, drop into the David Wills House (8 Lincoln Square; davidwillshouse.org; $6.50), a lawyer's Federal brick home where President Lincoln stayed the night before he delivered the Gettysburg Address to thousands of people. The bedroom, with its original mahogany Rococo bed, is said to be where Lincoln added finishing touches to his speech.

8 p.m.
10. Stout Spot

You could go to the darkly lighted, laid-back Garryowen Irish Pub (126 Chambersburg Street; garryowenirishpub.net) just for a pint of stout, but it would be a shame to miss out on its rib-sticking Irish dishes like shepherd's pie topped with inch-thick mashed potatoes or Irish onion soup, which cleverly subverts the French original by substituting Guinness for wine. Dinner for two with wine, about $50. Bands, playing anything from traditional Irish music to alt-country, start around 10 p.m. on Saturdays.

SUNDAY

10:30 a.m.
11. Hearty Start

Hunt's Battlefield Fries (61 Steinwehr Avenue; 717-334-4787) may look like a memorabilia shop, with its walls and ceilings lined with old-fashioned metal tins of Coca-Cola and "I Love Lucy" and military baseball hats for purchase, but breakfast is no side business here. Try the chef and owner Scott Hunt's sugar and cinnamon French toast or home fries, with freshly squeezed orange juice, to find out how serious it is. Breakfast for two about $20.

Noon
12. Wine Way

Apple orchards and farms still blanket Adams County, but some have reinvented themselves as vineyards. Take Lincoln Highway to the Adams County Winery (251 Peach Tree Road, Orrtanna; adamscountywinery.com), an 1860s red barn in Orrtanna where you can taste up to six wines, including a sweet Niagara, for free. The Historic Round Barn and Farm Market (298 Cashtown Road, Biglerville; roundbarngettysburg.com), in a 1914 white barn in Biglerville, sells fresh produce and its own pickled vegetables and jams. Pick up some cheeses and snacks for a picnic across the road at the Hauser Estate Winery (410 Cashtown Road, Biglerville; hauserestate.com). After trying a flight of six wines ($6), including a chambourcin and a sweet apple wine, order a glass of your favorite and set up your picnic on the patio overlooking the valley.

LODGING

Last year Gettysburg Hotel (1 Lincoln Square; hotelgettysburg.com), built in 1797, renovated its 119 rooms, lobbies and meeting spaces in a style that's at once modern and in keeping with its stately Georgian facade. Rooms start at $159.

If you're looking for a more intimate experience, try one of the 12 rooms at James Gettys Hotel (27 Chambersburg Street; jamesgettyshotel.com), built in 1804. Its suites have a bedroom, sitting room, kitchenette and private bath, and a basket of homemade muffins and fruit is delivered to your door each morning. Rooms start at $145.


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