T Magazine: Paris Takes a Crack at Lobster Rolls

Written By Unknown on Minggu, 21 April 2013 | 17.35

This spring, another iconic American comfort food is taking Paris by storm. On the edge of Les Halles, the former screenwriter Mathieu Mercier's Lobster Bar has been packed ever since it opened on April 2, with stylish young Parisians who are showing off their amour for the Eastern Seaboard by knowing what a lobster roll is without being told. Mercier, an amiable Swiss guy married to a New Yorker, first found lobster love during a holiday in Maine as a boy. At a beach shack, he wanted a burger, but they were sold out — so he reluctantly settled for a lobster roll and immediately got bitten.

"From one visit to America to the next, I craved a good lobster roll," says Mercier, who finally decided to make himself happy and deliver Paris from its obsession with burgers by tempting the locals with lobster instead. The rolls he serves are made with Brittany lobster, bien sûr, although he confides that he doesn't taste a huge difference between the Old World (Homarus gammarus) and New World (Homarus americanus) lobsters. "The best method is to steam the lobster for a minute, so that the meat doesn't stick to the shell, and then grill it," says Mercier, who consulted New York's Mary's Fish Camp and Pearl Oyster Bar for tips on how best to make a lobster roll.

To my Connecticut-reared taste buds, the only thing American about Mercier's riff is the slightly sweet and caky oblong roll the lobster meat is daintily piled into. Otherwise, in another swell example of how one culture improves on the cuisine of another, this baby is as French as Charles de Gaulle's nose, since it's lightly dressed in a tarragon-bright vinaigrette. And while Mercier's take on New England-style claws-and-tails is good, he's not the only one in Paris these days with lobster on his mind.

The "lobster croque" served at the just-opened Jeanne B bistro in Montmartre is drop-dead good, too. The creation of the restaurateur Frederic Hubig-Schall, it's an elegant and original riff on lobster sandwiches with focaccia-like bread spread with Mornay sauce and grated Parmesan, which is then grilled, garnished with herbs and served with a light tomato-and-lobster-tamale vinaigrette.

The lobster club sandwich served at Ralph's, the in-store eatery at Ralph Lauren's Saint-Germain-des-Près boutique, is excellent, too. And if you're coming to Paris before April 30, you will want to taste the lobster sandwich at Café Prunier. (This is a special offer sandwich, but may be continued if Parisians take to it.) Created by the Polish-born chef Renata Dominik, it's the best lobster sandwich I've ever eaten on either side of the Atlantic. Why? It's made with toasted, freshly made Moroccan flatbread, impeccably cooked lobster tossed in a light honey-and-Xeres vinegar sauce, fresh herbs, including dill and chervil, fresh grapes, and orange and pink grapefruit sections. Unlike the mayonnaise-slathered lobster rolls I grew up on, everything about this sandwich is there to showcase the taste of the lobster itself, which is why this one is just as perfect as a pearl.

Café Prunier, 15 Place de la Madeleine, Eighth Arrondissement; 011-33-01-47-42-98-91; prunier.com.

Jeanne B, Jeanne B, 61 rue Lepic, 18th Arrondissement; 011-33-01-42-51-17-53; jeanne-b-comestibles.com.
The Lobster Bar, 41 rue Coquillière, First Arrondissement; lobsterbar.fr.

Ralph's, 173 boulevard Saint-Germain-des-Pres, Sixth Arrondissement; 011-33-01-44-77-76-00; ralphlaurenstgermain.com.


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