Bites : Mexican Fare With Flair in Kansas City, Mo.

Written By Unknown on Kamis, 28 Februari 2013 | 17.35

Walk into Port Fonda and your chest will likely rattle from the ear-popping rap music. You may be tempted to dance. But instead of D.J.'s and writhing partyers, you'll find a mix of soccer moms, yuppies and beanie-and-flannel-wearing hipsters at minimalist wooden tables, straining their voices between bites of lengua tacos and tomato-braised octopus and sips of margaritas flavored with blood orange liqueur and hibiscus syrup.

In Kansas City, Mo., a city with an imaginative and evolving culinary scene, Port Fonda has drawn a dedicated following. That's partly because of the inventive Mexican food — unlike anything else around town — but also because of its edgy atmosphere, which reflects the personality of the restaurant's chef and owner, Patrick Ryan, 37, who sports a long orange beard and a collage of tattoos and piercings.

After honing his craft in kitchens in upstate New York and Chicago, he landed in Kansas City (near his hometown, Overland Park, Kan.) about four years ago. In June, he opened Port Fonda.

"I kind of wanted it to be abrasive," Mr. Ryan said. "You really kind of zip down your insides and show people your guts. It's not a place that everybody should love. It's not a place that everybody should even like."

The lure of Port Fonda (once a candidate for the city's name) actually started about a year before he opened the restaurant, when he sold Mexican street cuisine — tacos, tortas, chilaquiles — out of a vintage Airstream trailer. It was an instant success.

The restaurant expands on that menu but offers the same down-home Mexican food tailored to Midwestern palates with Mr. Ryan's flair. In the menudo (a traditional soup), tripe is braised until tender and smooth; other pieces are cut into ribbons and fried. Another popular dish, chilaquiles, is topped with house-made mashed green chorizo and a sauce brightened with Dos Equis beer.

The sopa Port Fonda, inspired by Vietnamese pho, is perhaps the most flavorful creation: pork belly, braised pork shoulder, grilled and roasted vegetables, chochoyotes (masa dumplings) and a fried egg — all soaking in a spicy bacon-chile broth. At the moment, that dish is not on the menu, but Mr. Ryan said it will return on March 4, when the restaurant is to embark on its newest endeavor: lunch. 

Port Fonda, 4141 Pennsylvania Avenue, Kansas City, Mo.; (816) 216-6462; portfondakc.com. The average price for dinner for two, not including drinks and tip, is about $35.


Anda sedang membaca artikel tentang

Bites : Mexican Fare With Flair in Kansas City, Mo.

Dengan url

http://travelwisatawan.blogspot.com/2013/02/bites-mexican-fare-with-flair-in-kansas.html

Anda boleh menyebar luaskannya atau mengcopy paste-nya

Bites : Mexican Fare With Flair in Kansas City, Mo.

namun jangan lupa untuk meletakkan link

Bites : Mexican Fare With Flair in Kansas City, Mo.

sebagai sumbernya

0 komentar:

Posting Komentar

techieblogger.com Techie Blogger Techie Blogger