Bites : A Gastro Pub by the Palms in Miami

Written By Unknown on Kamis, 07 Februari 2013 | 17.35

Pubbelly

Japanese amberjack at Pubbelly.

To many Miamians, Pubbelly is not just a great gastro pub. It's not even just the flagship restaurant in what has fast become an exceedingly successful mini-empire. In Miami, the "Pubbelly guys," as they're almost universally referred to, are often spoken of as folk heroes and credited with having fundamentally transformed the city's food landscape with six spots in just over two years, and another scheduled to open this year. If you ask Andreas Schreiner, who with Jose Mendin and Sergio Navarro opened Pubbelly in late 2010, that kind of recalibration of the Miami food scene was exactly their goal.

Four years ago, all three men were working in Chicago, though each had ties to Miami. "By coincidence we ran into each other," Mr. Shreiner said, "and we started talking about how the Miami food culture needed to grow and change and evolve." Miami, they felt, needed a restaurant like the ones that were proliferating in every other big city in the country: a small, neighborhood gastro pub serving unpretentious but sophisticated comfort food.

The result was a mostly Asian-inspired menu, with worldwide influences, including Korea (as in a sweet and salty fried chicken, served with kimchi, mustard miso and bibb lettuce for wrapping), Japan (ramen with barbecue pork belly and poached egg), Italy (a soft polenta with short rib, truffles and egg), and Mr. Navarro's native Spain (octopus a la plancha, with chorizo and piquillo pepper). There's also an emphasis on flavors redolent of earth, smoke and fat: foie gras, truffles, duck meat and bacon all feature prominently.

But while the menu flits across the globe, almost nothing at Pubbelly is true to a single culinary tradition. The Pubbelly Ramen, for example, is served in a lemon grass broth, a base more often associated with Southeast Asia than Japan, while the Galician octopus is accented with yuzu and dried soy beans. The restaurant's most popular small plate, the McBelly (a thick piece of fatty barbecued pork belly and kimchi served in a soft potato bun) is both delicious and stomach-achingly rich.

While Pubbelly's aesthetic is unimaginative — think wood-block tables, exposed brick and high ceilings with dangling light bulbs — the worldly class of lawyers, designers and fashionistas that it attracts clearly appreciates a homey neighborhood pub that's more substance than (Miami) style. 

Pubbelly, 1418 20th Street; (305) 532-7555; pubbelly.com. The average price for a dinner for two, not including drinks and tip, is $80.


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