Q&A: So You Want to Learn to Cook in France?

Written By Unknown on Rabu, 23 Januari 2013 | 17.35

Ever since Julia Child taught cooking classes in her Paris kitchen decades ago, many an American living in the city has guided visiting countrymen on the intricacies of French cooking and eating. But not all of them have been as knowledgeable as Ms. Child.

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Susan Herrmann Loomis teaches classes at her home in Normandy.

David Lebovitz, an American pastry chef and cookbook author who has lived and led tours in Paris for two decades, can attest to this. "I've actually seen tour guides at the market say, 'This is beef, and the French eat a lot of beef.' 'Oh, look, carrots.' "

When it comes to food in France, you need to know the professionals from the poseurs. Below are edited excerpts from a conversation with Mr. Lebovitz on how to find (reliably good) cooking classes and food tours in the country. 

Q. Say you want to take a cooking class in Paris, where do you start?

A. First ask yourself, "Do you speak French?" Because many, particularly professional, schools only have classes in French. L'Atelier des Chefs, which has seven locations in Paris, offers single-subject classes like bread making or macarons — really popular right now — at all levels. Classes run up to two hours and cost about 70 euros; make sure you wear comfortable shoes, because you'll be standing for most of it. If you're a professional or someone really interested in cooking, I'd suggest looking at the schools of Guy Martin or Alain Ducasse, famous chefs who are not necessarily there, but their staffs are highly regarded. Ducasse's school in the 16th Arrondissement has some classes in English as does École Ferrandi, a professional cooking school.

Q. Any other options for English speakers?

A. There are some really good people, French and American, who hold small group classes in English. La Cuisine Paris near Hôtel de Ville or Cook'n With Class in Montmartre often do menu classes, where you go to the market, get ingredients, make a several-course meal and sit down and eat it. Paule Cailat, who's French but speaks perfect English, of Promenades Gourmandes takes you on a tour of the markets and then you do a hands-on cooking class in her kitchen.

Q. Any suggestions for those who just want to walk and eat?

A. Paris by Mouth does a lot of great tours — wine tasting, cheese tasting, pastry tours and market tours. I do a weeklong chocolate tour of Paris and Lausanne, Switzerland, once or twice a year. We might go to a chocolate shop or a confectionery maker, then do a wine or charcuterie tasting at lunch or go to a cheese cave.

Q. Any options outside of Paris?

A. Susan Herrmann Loomis, an American who's lived in France for decades, teaches weeklong classes at her country home in Normandy. Patricia Wells does something similar at her home in Provence, and Kate Hill in Gascony teaches multiday charcuterie classes.

Q. How can you figure out whether a class is good, and whether it's the appropriate level for you?

A. If the instructor has some professional credentials, that's a good indicator. Also, look at local bulletin boards like AngloInfo.com or the discussion forum on Paris by Mouth and see what people have to say. Most of these classes require no training, but you can write a concise e-mail to the schools explaining your interest and background — like "I worked in a restaurant for two years," or "I tried to make croissants at home, but they never turned out right" — to see if you're the right level.

Q. You're writing a book about how a younger, more multicultural generation is changing French food. Do any of these classes or tours reflect that?

A. Context Travel is doing a tour on new trends in restaurants. Some new chefs are experimenting with foams and other molecular gastronomy techniques, with a few combining unusual pairings, mixing sweet and savory. More refined, subtle presentations.


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