Starwood Hotels & Resorts
The lobby of the Hotel Alfonso XIII, which reopened last March after a yearlong renovation.
The premier hotel in Seville, arguably Spain's most enchanting city, with prices from 250 euros, or about $325 at $1.28 to the euro.
BASICS
Designed for a Spanish king in the 1920s and longtime host to royals and celebrities from Sophia Loren to Brad Pitt, the Alfonso XIII, a Luxury Collection Hotel, reopened last March after an extensive yearlong renovation of the property's rooms, restaurants, suites and gardens. Centered on an elegant patio and fountain, the hotel rises like a Moorish castle, with palatial archways, tiled Andalusian frescoes, towering timbered ceilings, ornate iron balconies, and minarets. The marbled lobby, opulent dining room and cozy sitting areas offer a decadent portal into Seville's imperial past.
LOCATION
The Alfonso XIII couldn't be better situated. An easy walk in any direction leads to Seville's riches: the cathedral and Giralda tower; the historical Alcázar Palace and gardens; the elegant bullring; the cobblestone labyrinth of Barrio de Santa Cruz, the old Jewish neighborhood; Calle Sierpes, the eclectic shopping street; and, across a bridge, flamenco in Triana, the old Gypsy quarter.
THE ROOM
A reminder that not all quarters of a castle are built for kings, my room, No. 316, billed as a "queen deluxe," was depressingly limited. The renovation of this cramped space seemed to defy the opulence the old Alfonso was once known for. No desk to write a postcard on; no space for room service. The new mood was neither convincing nor inspiring. In such a tiny room, the Moorish-looking fringe along the ceiling, for instance, came off as comically contrived. Another misfire was the room's doors, which appeared to be hollow; they were not soundproof and turned the room into an echo chamber.
THE BATHROOM
Covered in tiles that were copper and white and arranged in a fresh arabesque pattern, the bathroom was the most inviting part of the room. The new pipes blasted hot water so quickly it was easy to indulge in spontaneous baths. Even the bidet came with his and her cotton towels — the most "deluxe" part of the room that I noted.
AMENITIES
There's an outdoor pool and a gym in the gardens here, but any spare leisure time at the new Alfonso seems to get sucked up by its inefficiencies. The hotel has 151 rooms and suites, but only a few spaces at the front desk to handle phone calls or the masses that create a bottleneck in the lobby. Instead of offering free Wi-Fi in rooms, the hotel charges an 18-euro fee per day, which is inexcusable considering that most roadside motels now offer it free.
BOTTOM LINE
Seville is one of the friendliest places in Spain, embodying a living history that is accessible, affordable and very much its own. Sadly, the new Alfonso feels like an overpriced distraction, a once regal someplace turned into a kind of no place. The location is choice, but close by are several hotels that have retained their Andalusian charm and charge a third of the price.
Hotel Alfonso XIII, San Fernando, 2, Seville; (34-954) 917-000; hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com.
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