Julie Glassberg for The New York Times
Clockwise from top left: Dutch Kills, Museum of the Moving Image, Layali Dubai, India Sari Palace, Louis Armstrong House Museum, food court at New World Mall. Center: La Gran Uruguaya. More Photos »
REMEMBER old New York, where immigrants strived, cultures collided, grit outshined glamour and ethnic restaurants were filled with ethnic crowds, not Instagramming foodies? Before Manhattan commerce was diluted with H&M and Starbucks, and Brooklyn became half hipster playground, half suburb substitute? That city lives on in Queens, where the forces of gentrification have barely nipped at the edges of the city's most expansive borough, home to 2.2 million people, from (it seems) 2.2 million backgrounds. Though its coastal areas have only just begun to recover from the destruction of Hurricane Sandy, most of the borough's vast territory was untouched by the storm, and is full of sights and sounds unlike anything you'll find a short subway ride away in "The City."
Friday
5 p.m.
1. TINSELTOWN, ASTORIA
Hollywood gets all the P.R., but one of Queens's most energetic neighborhoods is home to Kaufman Astoria Studios, where the Marx Brothers shot "Animal Crackers" in 1930 and where Big Bird still resides. One building is now the separately run and recently renovated Museum of the Moving Image (36-01 35th Avenue; 718-777-6888; movingimage.us), which is free on Fridays from 4 to 8 p.m. (admission at other times is $12). The recently overhauled museum features not just television (Dr. Heathcliff Huxtable's sweater and Mork from Ork's spacesuit) and film (telegraphs sent by Orson Welles, Winona Ryder's prosthetic legs from "Black Swan"), but also digital entertainment, including functioning Donkey Kong, Space Invaders and Ms. Pac Man machines, and, until March 3, the exhibition "Spacewar! Video Games Blast Off," celebrating the 50th anniversary of the first video game.
8 p.m.
2. LITTLE EGYPT
Long known as a Greek neighborhood, Astoria is now wildly diverse, with Colombians, Brazilians and Slavs, and a big Middle Eastern commercial district at the north end of Steinway Street known as Little Egypt. You are unlikely to find better, more simply prepared fish than at Sabry's Seafood (24-25 Steinway Street; 718-721-9010), an informal, popular seafood spot where whole snapper, bronzini or tilapia are grilled, fried or barbecued Egypt style. Start with the grilled calamari, and try an Egyptian lemonade. (No alcohol is served.) Dinner for two is around $50.
10 p.m.
3. HOOKAH TIME
Little Egypt is filled with informal shisha bars, but for a more posh experience, head up the stairs to Layali Dubai (24-17 Steinway Street; 718-728-1492; layali-dubai.com), a lavish version of the hookah lounges on street level. The dress code for the mostly Muslim crowd is shocking in its range, from conservative to the near scandalous. Groups of men and women (often separated) sip mint tea ($3) and fruit juice ($5), smoke hookahs ($10 to $25) and take in live music and belly-dancing ($10 cover) until late.
Midnight
4. DECISIONS, DECISIONS
Drink like a hipster or dance like a Dominican? Here are two choices for late-night partying. Option 1: Head to Dutch Kills (27-24 Jackson Avenue; 718-383-2724; dutchkillsbar.com), a fashionable cocktail hideaway in Long Island City, for a Rum Buck, Bloody Knuckle or — why not? — a Manhattan. (At $8 to $11, the specialty drinks are at least $4 cheaper than you'd find at similar Manhattan joints.) Option 2: Dance to feverish merengue and bachata rhythms at Jubilee (23-04 94th Street; 718-335-1700; granrancho.com), a restaurant and club housed in a structure resembling a roadside Caribbean restaurant. Choose between the more informal live band in the restaurant (free entry) or the young crowd in the nightclub below ($10 cover).
Saturday
10:30 a.m.
5. EAT, DRINK, SHOP
Walk out of the subway at Roosevelt Avenue-Jackson Heights, and you have entered a land of diversity you previously assumed was metaphorical. How else to explain a pharmacy sign that reads "Bangladesh Farmacia" (to appeal to South Asian and South American constituencies) or a place where a Guatemalan shop closes and is fast-replaced by a Russian deli? Head north up 74th Street, stopping in Patel Brothers supermarket to ogle exotic produce; India Sari Palace to shop for saris; and Al Naimat to buy South Asian sweets. Take a right on 37th Avenue, Jackson Heights's main thoroughfare. Pick up a Colombian salpicón, halfway between fruit salad and juice, at La Paisa Bakery (37-03 82nd Street; 718-779-2784) to tide you over until you reach La Gran Uruguaya (85-06 37th Avenue; 718-505-0404) for coffee and Uruguayan-Colombian pastries. (Don't miss the plain-looking finger-shaped "vigilantes," sweet and buttery soft and only 75 cents.)
1 p.m.
6. CHEZ SATCHMO
When famous people's houses become museums, curators often scramble to recreate appropriate period décor. Not so at the Louis Armstrong House Museum (34-56 107th Street; 718-478-8297; satchmo.net), which was more or less frozen in time when the jazz giant died in his sleep (in the bed you'll see) in 1971. His wife, Lucille, lived there until 1982, but left most things untouched, down to the reel-to-reel tape recorders in Satchmo's office-studio, the bottle of his cologne and the gilded bathroom fixtures. Why did a celebrity like Armstrong choose to live the last three decades of his life in a modest house in the working-class Corona neighborhood? That question is explored on the guided tour ($10).
3 p.m.
7. PANORAMIC VIEW
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