The runway shows may be over, but for anyone who's Paris-bound, loves great food and wants to see what Parisians are really wearing this fall, head for Abri, the city's hottest young-chef bistro before it becomes impossible to book a table. On a recent visit, I sat across a table of beautifully groomed Parisiennes with fading tans, meticulously streaked blond hair and this season's de rigueur lightweight leather blazer. We were all drawn in by the young Japanese chef Katsuaki Okiyama, who previously worked at Robuchon, Taillevent and l'Agapé Bistrot, and who is serving up some spectacularly good East-meets-West bistro cooking at remarkably affordable prices.
The menus Okiyama prepares in a tiny open smoky kitchen change constantly, but his beautiful edible miniatures consistently elevate the excellent produce he works with and also reflect the steely technical skills of a well-trained and relentlessly self-demanding chef. A few delicious examples include a salad of shaved beets, last-of-season local heirloom tomatoes, crab meat and a delicate but hauntingly good miso dressing; a soothing pumpkin soup topped with coffee-cardamom foam; grilled yellow pollock in an airy lemon, raw butter and cream sauce; and individual tarte Tatins with freshly made vanilla ice cream. N.B.: On Mondays and Saturdays, Okiyama serves sandwiches and organic drinks.
The other really terrific new table where the wild things are right now in Paris is Roseval, a superb modern bistro up in Menilmontant, an old Paris neighborhood that's just now teetering on the brink of gentrification. Here, a talented duo — the American-born, British-raised Michael Greenwold and the Italian Simone Tondo who have, between them, worked at some of the hippest restaurants in Paris, like Le Chateaubriand, Caffe dei Cioppi and Rino — cook in tandem in a street-corner space that has the appealingly louche atmosphere of an old neighborhood tavern. Their version of la cuisine naïve — which is what I call the delicate, produce-centered, aesthetic contemporary French cooking — runs to spectacular dishes like an ur-comfort food silky potato purée with baby clams and slow-roasted pork with eggplant purée, cubes of pomelo and dill.
Meanwhile, many of the best young chefs in Paris are causing a baby boom, and this means a lot of bottles, since so many of them are opening wine-bar annexes to their main tables. If Inaki Aizpitarte of Le Chateaubriand, Gregory Marchand of Frenchie and Braden Perkins of Verjus led the way with Le Dauphin, Frenchies Wine Bar and Verjus Wine Bar respectively, the next up is Bertrand Grebaut of Septime, who has a wine-bar-with-small-plates place scheduled to open soon on Rue Trousseau, in the 11th Arrondissement.
Bucking the trend, Pierre Jancou, the the amiable and elaborately inked local champion of vins naturel (unsulfured wines, usually organic), has transformed Vivant, his wine bar with a magnificent Art Nouveau tile mural of exotic birds, into a restaurant, Vivant Table, with a pair of Japanese chefs, Atsumi Sota and Yamamoto Masaki, who turn out interesting dishes like cabbage-leaf wrapped foie gras with beets and a borscht jus.
And since it's only been open for a month or so, the jury's still out on La Dame de Pic, the celebrated chef Anne-Sophie Pic's new Paris restaurant with a feminine boudoir-like décor by Bruno Borrione and three expensive set-price menus. Each of these is given an olfactory tease in the form of a perfumed scent strip that comes to the table with the menus, so you can choose what to eat essentially by smelling it in advance. The perfumes were created by Pic working in collaboration with Philippe Bousseton, the nose for the perfumer Takasago, so don't be surprised if these foodie scents are soon for sale in stores.
Abri, 92 rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 10th Arrondissement; 011-33-01-83-97-00-00
Au Passage, 1 bis passage saint Sébastien, 11th Arrondissement; 011-33-01-43-55-07-52
La Dame de Pic, 20 rue du Louvre, First Arrondissement; 011-33-1-42-60-40-40
Roseval, 1 Rue d'Eupatoria, 20th Arrondissement; 011-33-9-53-56-24-13
Vivant Table, 43 rue des petites Ecuries, 10th Arrondissement; 011-33-01-42-46-43-55, or e-mail resavivant@gmail.com.
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