A Quick Island Getaway From Auckland

Auckland Tourism, Events and Economic Development Ltd.

There are more than two dozen wineries on Waiheke Island, which is just off the coast of Auckland, New Zealand.

AUCKLAND — Northeast of New Zealand's largest city is an island that combines two of the best-loved aspects of life in this country: verdant vineyards and golden beaches.

Waiheke Island sits in the Hauraki Gulf, close enough to see Auckland's skyline but far enough to escape its bustle. The island, about 17 kilometers, or 10 miles, from Auckland, has become a favorite destination for weekend getaways since the introduction of a regular high-speed ferry service in 1986.

It also has gained population; in 2011, the Auckland Council estimated that slightly more than 8,700 people were permanent residents of the island, which totals 92 square kilometers, or 32 square miles. That is almost twice the 4,500 residents who, according to an Auckland University research paper, were living there when the high-speed service began.

Waiheke's landscape is a mixture of lush, wild bush and rows upon rows of grapevines, with the sea never more than a few miles away. Most Waiheke locals live in small townships on the island's western side. The eastern side is largely uninhabited but includes several wineries and a historic World War II defense site.

There are a number of ways to get around Waiheke, including bicycle, motor scooter or car — all of which can be rented at Matiatia Wharf, where the passenger ferry docks.

There also are public buses that stop right beside the wharf; day passes can be purchased for 9 New Zealand dollars, or $7.37.

For first-time visitors, one option is to buy a Waiheke Explorer pass for 49 dollars at the ferry terminal. It includes a return ferry ticket, a quick guided bus tour of the island and a day pass for the regular bus routes. The tour is an hourlong trip around the western end of the island, stopping briefly at picturesque spots where visitors might like to return on their own.

As the bus rattled along the hilly, narrow roads one recent Saturday, past properties ranging from simple, weatherboard-clad beach houses to large, modern homes, the driver was joking.

"For those sat on my right, your air-conditioning's up here on your right," he said, reaching above and behind his head to pull open one of the windows. "That's about as good as it gets, really, I'm afraid."

The tour ends at Onetangi Bay, the farthest east of the populated areas, where travelers can either disembark or stay on the bus to return directly to Matiatia Wharf. Onetangi Bay is popular for strolls along the straight, sandy beach as well as for swimming and sea kayaking.

From Onetangi Bay, a visitor can catch a public bus a couple of kilometers west to Wild On Waiheke, across the road from the island's nine-hole golf course. Amid more than two dozen wineries on Waiheke, it is the only local craft brewery. Along with tastings of German-style beer, it offers activities like archery, laser clay-bird shooting and pétanque, and has a cafeteria with an outdoor dining area that features beanbag seating alongside tables and chairs.

Next to Wild On Waiheke is Stonyridge Vineyard, one of the many wineries that have become a big tourist draw. It is estimated that there are 180 hectares, or about 445 acres, of vines on the island, mostly red varieties including syrah, cabernet sauvignon and merlot; but there are also several white varieties like chardonnay and pinot gris.

"It's a pretty magic place," said Stephen White, Stonyridge's owner and winemaker, as he sat in the winery's restaurant, overlooking rolling green hills planted with vines. "It's bohemian and it's international, and it really feels like you're in another country."

Stonyridge is best known for its "Larose" wine, a Bordeaux-style blend that Mr. White has been producing on Waiheke since 1985. He said the island's hot and dry climate was what first drew him to buy land here in 1981.

"We have the ripeness of Australian and yet we have the sophistication of the French wines," he said. "Which is exactly how I want the wine to be made."

Vineyards can be found across the island but most are on the western side around Onetangi and Matiatia; a free map of wineries and their opening hours can be found at the ferry terminals. Some vineyards offer guided tours or free tastings seven days a week; many have restaurants or cafeterias with striking views, though some are open only for lunch or offer only cold platters until midafternoon.

Mr. White described the menu at Stonyridge as "Italy-meets-Asia," because, he said, the restaurant is serving an increasing number of tourists from China and Hong Kong.

Further west is Oneroa, a small township with cafeterias and shops selling clothes, crafts and, of course, wine. It looks out over one of Waiheke's many picturesque swimming beaches.

"It's just such a beautiful island; it's inspiring," said Norma Cross, a shop assistant in a local gift store who moved here three years ago. The locals have made it "probably one of the easiest places I've ever been to, to make friends."

Getting to Waiheke Island

The Fullers ferry company operates the passenger service to Waiheke from central Auckland, with at least one ferry leaving the city's Quay Street terminal every hour.

On clear days, a traveler will be entertained by Auckland's usual backdrop of moving watercraft, from racing yachts and pleasure crafts to historic sailboats and the occasional cruise ship. The trip is 35 minutes, or closer to 50 minutes if the service includes a stop at Devonport on the city's North Shore.

The adult fare is 35 dollars at the terminal; same-day round-trip tickets are 28 dollars online.

The last ferry back to the city is 12:30 a.m. every day except Sundays and public holidays, allowing plenty of time for a vineyard dinner. When the timing is right and the weather cooperates, a returning visitor might see the striking skyline of Auckland's high-rises.

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