36 Hours in Modena, Italy

Written By Unknown on Minggu, 21 Oktober 2012 | 17.35

Samuele Pellecchia for The New York Times

Clockwise from top left: elevated view of Modena, Acetaia di Giorgio, Aldo Rossi's orange edifice at San Cataldo Cemetery, Oops! Broken fruit pie at Osteria Francescana, Piazza della Pomposa, Franceschetta58, Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari. Center: Ghirlandina bell tower. More Photos »

WHAT did the tenor Luciano Pavarotti and the automobile company founder Enzo Ferrari have in common? For one thing, a hometown: the lovely city of Modena, 90 miles north of Florence, in the northern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna. But it was neither arias nor revving engines rumbling through Modena's cobblestone streets this spring, when a series of severe earthquakes struck the region. Fortunately, recovery has been steady, and today Modena is making noise with a new museum, a coterie of small boutiques, and a world-famous osteria, now with an affordable offshoot. In addition, visitors will find that the city's auspicious location — smack between Parma (of cheese and prosciutto fame) and Bologna (with its eponymous ragù), each about a 45-minute drive away — foretells its many fine gustatory pleasures.

Friday

4 p.m.
1. LIQUID GOLD

The difference between precious aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena — as the renowned high-quality balsamic vinegar is officially called — and the generic imitations stocked on supermarket shelves is analogous to the difference between gold and pyrite. To taste the good stuff, visit the small family-run balsamic vinegar producer Acetaia di Giorgio (Via Sandro Cabassi, 67; 39-059-333-015; acetaiadigiorgio.it). There, the genial proprietors Giorgio and Giovanna (accompanied by their companionable terrier, Leone) will walk you through the fermentation process, during which the vinegar is aged in a series of wooden barrels for a minimum of 12 years. The tour concludes with a tasting of different varieties of the rich, syrupy liquid, after which buying a bottle of the velvety Carlotta 1986 Extravecchio D.O.P. (110 euros, or $140 at $1.27 to the euro) will seem perfectly reasonable. Call ahead to arrange visits.

8 p.m.
2. ONE PRICE FITS ALL

Massimo Bottura is often heralded as Italy's top chef, and his elegant restaurant, Osteria Francescana, which earned a third Michelin star this year, is regarded as one of the world's best. But for those who balk at a triple-digit tasting menu, there's now a more affordable option. Last November, on the periphery of the city's historic center, Mr. Bottura opened the casual brasserie Franceschetta58 (Via Vignolese, 58; 39-059-309-1008; franceschetta58.it), where each dish on the menu costs only 7 euros. The whimsically mismatched plates may look like a lifetime's worth of flea market finds, but there's nothing second rate about the food you'll eat from them, like ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms or hand-rolled egg pasta smothered in rosemary-scented ragù.

11:30 p.m.
3. PIAZZA PARTY

The cobblestone streets radiating from Piazza della Pomposa are packed with bars and cafes whose large outdoor terraces hum on warm weekend nights. Crowds enjoying cooling drinks often spill into the street, creating the atmosphere of a late-night block party. One prime perch from which to meet some neighbors is Jutacafè (Via Taglio, 91; 39-059-219-449), a laid-back bar that regularly hosts events with local D.J.'s and also mixes a mean mojito (6.50 euros).

Saturday

10 a.m.
4. HOMETOWN HORSEPOWER

When it comes to cars, one name roars louder than all others in Modena: Ferrari. Its famous logo, the black cavallino rampante (little prancing horse) on a yellow background, is practically a sacred symbol here. To learn why, visit the Museo Casa Enzo Ferrari (Via Paolo Ferrari, 85; 39-059-439-7979; museocasaenzoferrari.it), a new museum that deifies the company founder and hometown hero Enzo Ferrari. Opened in March, the museum comprises the house in which Enzo was born and a dazzling new structure topped with a curving canary-yellow roof that resembles the hood of a racecar. Inside the new building, there are plenty of shiny cars to ogle. Admission is 13 euros, daydreaming is free.

12:30 p.m.
5. SUPER MARKET

The bustling Mercato Albinelli (Via Luigi Albinelli, 13; 39-059-211-218; mercatoalbinelli.it) has been satisfying the grocery needs of locals since 1931, but the covered marketplace also provides a fine tableau of the quotidian life of Modenesi. First grab a bag of amaretti di Modena — chewy almond cookies that are a local specialty — from the bakery in Stall 94. Then nibble on them while perusing the rest of the market's offerings, like trays of handmade stuffed pasta and hefty hunks of culatello, one of the region's tastiest salumi.

1:30 p.m.
6. LITTLE LUNCH

Focaccia squares stuffed with smoked tuna, figs, herbs and red onions? Imaginative, unconventional panini like this are concocted at Bar Schiavoni (Via Luigi Albinelli, 13; 39-059-243-073), a tiny spot tucked into one corner of the market. And at a cost of about 1 euro per panino, there's no reason not to sample all of the day's creative offerings. For a more substantial midday meal, head to Hosteria Giusti (Via Farini, 75 ; 39-059-222-533; hosteriagiusti.it), where regional specialties like zampone (sausage-stuffed pig trotters) are served in a small room in the rear of a 400-year-old salumeria. With only four tables, this osteria may be the hardest reservation to get in town, so plan accordingly.

4 p.m.
7. BUILT TO LAST

Piazza Grande in the historic center is a Unesco-certified cultural treasure, along with its beautiful 12th-century Romanesque cathedral (Corso Duomo; 39-059-216-078; duomodimodena.it) and its majestic Ghirlandina bell tower. After the devastating earthquakes that shook the region this spring, both structures were temporarily closed to allow for damage assessment. (The cathedral reopened last month.) Although the tower remains closed, its white-marble facade, which was recently restored, still gleams brilliantly. Marvel at the sublime scene over an aperitivo at Caffè Concerto (Piazza Grande, 26; 39-059-222-232; caffeconcertomodena.com), a cafe whose outdoor tables occupy precious cobblestone real estate on the picturesque piazza.

6:30 p.m.
8. CAPS AND GOWNS

When it comes to style, the Modenesi follow in the footsteps of their fashionable compatriots in Milan. To graduate to the locals' level, consider crowning your head with a chic cloche or dapper felt derby from Federica Moretti Handmade (Via Selmi, 24; 39-059-212-046; federicamorettihandmade.com), a hat shop that was opened by a talented local milliner in 2011. Accessories in place, browse the breezy knits, satin skirts and supple black leather jackets on the racks at Liviana Conti (Corso Duomo, 28; 39-059-221-434; livianaconti.com), a small boutique that opened in March.

9:30 p.m.
9. STABLE TO TABLES

Where horses once slept, humans now dine. Located in a former horse stable, Osteria Stallo del Pomodoro (Largo Hannover, 63; 39-059-214-664; stallodelpomodoro.it) is a casual restaurant whose creative menu tweaks traditional dishes like tortelli, a stuffed pasta typical of the region that here is filled with stinky cheese from Trentino (called Puzzone di Moena) and served with sliced asparagus and toasted sunflower seeds. For dessert, try the basil semifreddo topped with thick droplets of aceto balsamico tradizionale. There's also an atmospheric outdoor patio perfect for lingering late into the night over a bottle of lambrusco, the fizzy red wine that is produced in the region and served slightly chilled. Dinner for two, about 60 euros.

Sunday

10 a.m.
10. REST WITH ROSSI

Fans of architecture should find their way to the San Cataldo Cemetery (Via San Cataldo; 39-059-334-103) on the outskirts of town. The late great Italian designer and Pritzker-winning architect Aldo Rossi designed the cubical orange edifice that stands there in stark contrast to the surrounding grassy fields and long industrial-looking buildings (which house multistory mausoleums). The unfinished structure, a striking example of metaphysical architecture, was designed with no windows, doors, ceilings or floors. The peaceful place also inspires quiet contemplation.

12:30 p.m.
11. PUSH-START YOUR ENGINE

Have visions of cherry-red Ferraris been doing laps in your head? If so, drive 11 or so miles outside of Modena to the town of Maranello, home of the Ferrari factory and your best chance to get behind the wheel. Next to the town's Ferrari museum is PushStart (Via Dino Ferrari, 41; 39-346-370-5035; pushstart.it), a test-drive outfit with shiny Ferraris waiting to transform your automotive fantasies into reality. Ferrari too plebeian for you? They also rent Lamborghinis, including a Batmobile-like Aventador that will make your jaw drop. Test-drive options range from 10- to 120-minute cruises around the area (60 to 900 euros, depending on duration and car) to full-throttle laps around the Autodromo di Modena racetrack (850 euros for a lime-green Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera). To race, book ahead.

IF YOU GO

The Hotel Cervetta 5 (Via Cervetta, 5; 39-059-238-447; hotelcervetta5.com) is a pleasant 22-room hotel with an unbeatable location one block from Piazza Grande. Rooms are simple and snug; amenities include air-conditioning, free Wi-Fi and a daily continental breakfast. Doubles from 120 euros ($152).

The peaceful pastoral grounds and well-tended gardens surrounding the Hotel Castello (Via Pica, 321; 39-059-361-033; hotelcastello-mo.it) hint at the property's previous incarnation as a country residence of Italian nobility. A five-minute drive from the city center, the hotel now has 38 rooms spread between the historic manor and a newer annex, with doubles starting at 90 euros.


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