THE industrial port city of Gothenburg, on Sweden's west coast, has little of the glamour that graces the country's capital, Stockholm. But this once resolutely working-class city is nevertheless making a name for itself as a new hive of the creative arts, with its homegrown fashion labels and upstart indie bands, its rollicking craft beer bars and alternative arts scene. Gothenburg (Goteborg in Swedish) is also the fitting host to Scandinavia's leading film festival and hugely popular music festivals, including Summerburst and Way Out West. These days, the cool cultural revival happening in Sweden's second-largest city appears well under way.
Friday
3 p.m.
1. UNDER THE BRIDGE
In the 1980s, graffiti artists and ravers appropriated Roda Sten (Roda Sten 1; 46-31-120-816; rodasten.com), then an abandoned heating plant in an industrial no man's land under a bridge spanning the Gota River. Now the boxy four-story building has evolved into a cultural center that hosts large-scale artworks, experimental projects and events like club nights. Tour the waterfront structure (admission, 40 Swedish kronor, or $6.20 at 6.44 kronor to the dollar) for a taste of the local alternative art scene and a glimpse of the city's hardscrabble roots.
5:30 p.m.
2. DRINK DELIVERY
The January opening of the Clarion Hotel Post, in the grand neo-Classical building that formerly housed the city's post office, was heralded as a signal of the new Gothenburg. An affiliation with the well-known chef Marcus Samuelsson, who grew up in the area, created instant buzz for the hotel's restaurant and bar, Norda Bar & Grill (Drottningtorget 10; 46-31-619-060; nordabargrill.se). Go there on Friday evening, when Norda's terrace bar becomes a wildly popular location for "After Work," the English term Swedes use to connote happy hour.
8 p.m.
3. SWEDISH SUPPER
Gothenburg was named the Culinary Capital of Sweden for 2012 by the nation's rural government ministry. This title was very likely bestowed upon the city, at least in part, thanks to Thornstroms Kok (Teknologgatan 3; 46-31-162-066; thornstromskok.com), the latest restaurant in town to earn a Michelin star. The spare dining areas are a textbook example of Scandinavian minimalism, and service is as crisp as the starched linens. A recent meal included pan-seared scallops in browned butter paired with Jerusalem artichoke, pickled scallop roe and dill jelly. The four-course Scandinavian tasting menu costs 625 kronor.
11:30 p.m.
4. LATE NIGHTS, LONG STREETS
In the past few years, the area known as Langgatorna, or the Long Streets, has shed its seedy reputation and become an alternative night-life destination. What the still-gritty area lacks in polish it makes up for with vibrancy, as at Café Publik (Andra Langgatan 20), where D.J.'s fuel the youthful frenzy. For a tamer crowd, descend the steps to the new basement-level wine bar Vink (Andra Langgatan 5; 46-31-134-044; vink2.se).
Saturday
10 a.m.
5. WATER WORSHIP
It was Dutch immigrants who, in the 1600s, designed the city and its network of narrow canals. Admire their lasting contribution on a walk through Kungsparken, the park that hugs a lovely, zigzagging canal. Follow this waterway west until you reach the striking, Gothic-looking structure known as Feskekorka (Rosenlundsvagen; feskekörka.se). Inside this "Fish Church," as its name translates, congregants worship Poseidon: the building houses the city's retail seafood market, where vendors' stalls are piled high with shrimp, crayfish and lobster.
Noon
6. HOG OR HERRING
For lunch, pop into Gourmetkorv (Sodra Larmgatan 6; 46-31-136-233; gourmetkorv.se), a hole-in-the-wall sausage specialist offering dozens of varieties to choose from. The aptly named "Tjockis" (or "Fatso") meal combo pairs a thick sausage, like bratwurst, with mashed potatoes, your choice of mustards, delicious pressed garlic toast and a drink (72 kronor). Or for a lighter lunch with a more distinctly Scandinavian bent, head to Strommingsluckan (Magasinsgatan 17; 46-73-245-9907; strommingsluckan.se), a popular food trailer parked nearby that dishes out fried herring with mashed potatoes and lingonberries (55 kronor).
1:30 p.m.
7. SILK AND DENIM
Mere steps from the lunch spots, shop for made-in-Sweden style along Magasinsgatan, a largely pedestrian street lined with cool boutiques. Start at the eclectic home-furnishings store Artilleriet (Magasinsgatan 19; 46-31-711-7621; artilleriet.se), where you can find anything from a bird cage lampshade fitted with faux canaries (4,625 kronor) to a felt envelope bag (499 kronor) from the local accessories brand P.A.P. Across a courtyard at Grandpa (Vallgatan 3; 46-31-711-7008; grandpa.se), the shelves and racks are packed with Swedish fashion designers: silk blouses from Dagmar, slouchy men's sweaters from Hope, statement socks from Happy Socks. Then head upstairs to find denim, denim and more denim at the Blue Jeans Company (Vallgatan 3; 46-31-701-0010; bluejeanscompany.com), where the fabric stars in everything from denim necklaces handmade by store employees to work-ready overalls from the Gothenburg label Pace.
3:30 p.m.
8. AVENUE OF THE ARTS
Kungsportsavenyn, known to locals simply as "Avenyn" (or "the Avenue"), is the city's bustling main drag that terminates at the city's art museum, Goteborgs Konstmuseum (Gotaplatsen; 46-31-368-3500; konstmuseum.goteborg.se; 40 kronor). The museum is a fine repository of Nordic art and also houses the Hasselblad Center, an exhibition hall that displays photographic works. After a visit, pause for fika, Sweden's cherished tradition of coffee and a bulle (or sweet bun), at the new Viktors Kaffe (Geijersgatan 7; 46-76-268-6867). Then continue to Sweden's prestigious design museum, Rohsska Museet (Vasagatan 37-39; 46-31-368-3150; designmuseum.se; 40 kronor), a few blocks away, where exhibits range from midcentury furniture to futuristic dresses from the Swedish fashion designer Helena Horstedt.
7:30 p.m.
9. TEQUILA AND TACOS
Curious what a Mexican bordello circa 1918 might have looked like? Then step into the splendidly atmospheric (and, notably, sleaze-free) restaurant Puta Madre (Magasinsgatan 3; 46-31-711-8838; putamadre.se), with its fringed lampshades, flickering chandeliers and sultry red drapes. Savor the scene over a sage-and-pineapple margarita or one of the 100-odd tequilas, and then order excellent house-made corn tortillas stuffed with spicy chorizo and potatoes, or grilled mackerel and lime, jicama and red-onion salsa. Finish with a slice of layer cake; there are a dozen or so on display, including one with chocolate, chile and passionfruit. Dinner for two, about 800 kronor.
10 p.m.
10. BEER, NOT BLASK
Beer geeks will appreciate the sign — "Don't Ask for Blask" (literally "dishwater" in Swedish, but slang for lousy beer) — that hangs above the taps at 3 Sma Rum (Kristinelundsgatan 4; 46-31-181-904; 3smarum.se), a basement pub with an outsize selection of Belgian and other craft beers but no Carlsberg or Corona. Low ceilings and dim lighting create a cozy space to enjoy a pint — like the refreshing High Five IPA from the local brewery Dugges — but it's the Oriental rugs lining the walls that really tie the bar's three small rooms together. A newer pub is Olrepubliken (Kronhusgatan 2B; 46-31-711-3710; olrepubliken.se), whose thick menu offers a wider selection of Swedish craft brews, including several from the Gothenburg microbrewery Oceanbryggeriet.
Sunday
10 a.m.
11. CAFE ROUNDS
Start the day at Bar Centro (Kyrkogatan 31; 46-31-711-0027), a small coffee shop where the espresso is made to high Italian standards and patrons often linger on the stoop and curb outside. Then stroll through the charming cobblestone streets of the historic Haga neighborhood, which is peppered with classic Swedish cafes, like Café Husaren (Haga Nygata 28; 46-31-136-378; cafehusaren.se), that sell absurdly oversize kanelbullar (cinnamon buns) known as Hagabullar (38 kronor).
Noon
12. WAY OUT WEST
To escape the city and commune with the sea, head to the islands that make up Gothenburg's sprawling southern archipelago. One readily accessible destination is the tranquil, nearly car-free island of Branno, with its colorful cottages and secluded bathing rocks, stunning sea vistas and untrammeled hiking paths. To reach this peace, take tram 11 to its western terminus, Saltholmen, from which ferries depart regularly (find timetables at styrsobolaget.com), arriving in Branno about 20 minutes later.
IF YOU GO
The nine-month-old Clarion Hotel Post (Drottningtorget 10; 46-31-619-000; clarionpost.se), with 500 rooms, occupies the historic post office building next to the central train station. There's a cool, maximalist design scheme (the reception desk is inlaid with large crystal prisms from Orrefors), a nearly 13,000-square-foot spa and panoramic city views from the rooftop pool. Doubles from 1,280 kronor ($200).
A short walk from Avenyn, the chic 101-room First Hotel Avalon (Kungstorget 9; 46-31-751-0200; avalonhotel.se) marries feng shui principles and Scandinavian design, as evidenced by trickling water in the lobby and suites furnished with Arne Jacobsen chairs. Doubles from 1,500 kronor.
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